Rust Treatment & Prevention: Your Guide to the Right Products for the Job

The best way to deal with rust is to remove it. This can be achieved through mechanical (abrasive blasting, wire wheel, sanding, etc.), chemical (Oxisolv Rust Remover) means, or the direct approach of cutting out the affected area. When the metal is perforated or the strength is compromised, cutting and replacement is the only way to go. There are always those areas in every project that are only slightly corroded and where strength has not been compromised. For these sections use mechanical means to at least remove the loose rust, then use Oxisolv Rust Remover to completely dissolve the rust. For areas where you can’t readily reach to remove the Oxisolv, use Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. If you can’t reach the area to remove the loose rust use the Heavy Duty Anti-Rust. That’s a brief summary of the proper use of our best selling rust treatments. Now let’s look at the individual products.

Oxisolv Rust Remover is a phosphoric acid based product that leaves a zinc phosphate coating for temporary rust protection. As with all acid based products, it works faster at 70ºF than at 50ºF. Oxisolv can be heated up to 100º F for even faster rust removal. Prior to using Oxisolv make sure the surface is grease and oil free (PRE Painting Prep works great here!), knock off the loose rust and spray or wipe on the Oxisolv. For heavier rust, saturate a cloth with Oxisolv, lay it on the surface and cover with plastic to prevent evaporation. Check the surface every 30 minutes or so and rinse with water (or to prevent flash rusting use PRE Painting Prep), and prime. Oxisolv will not remove paint (though it may discolor it) or grease or oil deposits. Do not leave parts in contact longer than it takes to remove the rust, as base metal erosion will take place.

Eastwood Rust Encapsulator seals the surface with minute glass flakes. Even though Rust Encapsulator is a slow cure fortified enamel, use lacquer thinner up to 15% for spray application. Very little prep is required to apply Rust Encapsulator. Just knock off the loose rust, make sure the surface is grease and oil free (PRE Painting Prep works great!) and brush or spray apply 2 medium coats. Allow about 2-3 hours between coats and 6-8 hours after the final coat before topcoating. If desired, the surface can be rubbed down with a fine wet/dry abrasive paper, allowing an extra hour to dry before applying the top coat. Rust Encapsulator is dry to the touch in 1.5-2 hours and is thoroughly dry in about 4 hours at 68ºF. Thicker coats of Rust Encapsulator will proportionately increase dry time. If more than 36 hours elapse before the top coat is applied, be sure to sand the surface with 320 grit wet/dry paper to assure good adhesion.

Rust Encapsulator works great over or under plastic body fillers. Rust Encapsulator also withstands up to 400ºF making it great for priming rusty engine blocks. Though it can be sprayed through the Undercoating System, this application is not recommended as it usually means it’s being applied inside a door or rocker panel where even basic prep cannot be done. (See Heavy Duty Anti-Rust)

Can Rust Encapsulator be top coated with a lacquer type paint? Yes and No. Yes, because with sufficient cure time and light mist coats a reaction can be avoided. No, because if there is not sufficient dry time or the lacquer is applied in heavy coats lifting will occur. It’s always best to recommend testing a small area before proceeding.

Eastwood Rust Converter chemically converts rust to inert iron oxide. Rust Converter is easy to use and is an effective way to stop rust. For the ultimate rust prevention on automobile frames, we recommend a 3-step system of Rust Converter top-coated with Rust Encapsulator, and then followed up with a top-coat of Chassis Black. The end result is a beautiful finish that lasts!

Self Etching Primer should only be applied to rust-free, clean, dry metal. Self Etching Primer sticks well to steel, stainless steel, aluminum, even scuffed galvanized surfaces. Traditional self-etching primers are 2 part acid based products. Our Self Etching Primer uses an aggressive solvent with acid to thoroughly bond to the surface. Chassis Black does not adhere well to our self etching primer but will work fine over 2 part epoxy primers. Do not use self etching primer on surfaces that reach temperatures in excess of 180ºF, as failure will occur.

Use The Undercoating System to apply either Heavy Duty Anti-Rust or Rubberized Undercoating. This system requires about 5-6 cfm (cubic feet per minute) at about 90-120 psi (pounds per square inch) compressed air. The variety of nozzles and extensions gives the user the ability to thoroughly rust proof most vehicles.

Heavy-Duty Anti-rust is a waxy, oily coating that seals the surface from contact with moisture or air. This is obviously not for use in areas that would be subsequently painted. Heavy-Duty Antirust works great in doors and rocker panels or inside frame members. Prep is very limited. Just make sure the surface is dry. Use a heat gun or heat lamp to gently heat seams and closed areas where moisture may become trapped and apply.

Heavy-Duty Anti-rust is sometimes used in wheel wells as a primer under Rubberized Undercoating. Though this procedure does not appear to enhance adhesion, it does add an extra barrier of protection that will help prevent rust should the undercoating be damaged.

Rubberized Undercoating is best used only inside wheel well areas. This product is not recommended for use inside rocker panels or doors, because while this product is unlikely to peel away from the surface like inferior undercoats, Heavy-Duty Anti-rust requires less surface prep.

Rubberized Undercoating can also be painted over with lacquer, enamels, and urethanes as was the OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) practice in some vehicles. The thickness of the coating provides some sound deadening as well as a resilient layer to protect the surface from rock chips.

Cold Galvanizing Compound is applied to bare clean steel for excellent corrosion protection. This coating was originally developed to prevent bare steel structures from rusting when exposed to the elements. The 90% pure metallic zinc content of this product gives similar protection to a galvanized coating.

Cold Galvanizing Compound is not recommended as a primer as subsequent coatings do not adhere well. Cold Galvanizing works great when applied in a thin coat to a joint prior to welding, or for coating bare steel surfaces that will later be hidden as in a rocker or quarter panel replacement.

This product can be thinned with mineral spirits for spraying. Cold Galvanizing Compound dries to the touch in 20-30 minutes and can be recoated after 24 hours. Allow 14 days for full cure.

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